Where to start?

Hi DRC,

Some great points above and from my experience, as an adult going into the hobby unencumbered by a childhood set and a requirement for comparability, you should go straight for DCC. I would, however, suggest some sort of DC controller would be needed as its always worth testing that any locomotive runs well on DC before converting to DCC.

I would also suggest it is worth taking some time to think about what you would like to achieve. You have the attic space mentioned and think you will be adding scenery later on. Do you think you will be wanting to primarily run trains or perform shunting/depot duties. If you have a chance, try and get along to an exhibition and speak to the guys there and have a look at the selection of layouts and models.

As you have attic, your one step ahead of me........I have the trains, controllers and plan, and just need my son to leave home so I can get the room! Happy modelling.

Hello ellocoloco,

My plan is to start with an 8x4 sheet with a custom track layout that will eventually (hopefully) leave the door open for further expansions and additional wooden surfaces to create more track and perhaps a quarry and a shunting yard. That does seem a way off as I would like to become familiar with the basics first, not only in model trains, but landscaping too. Not to mention I had no idea how expensive this hobby is.

With all the great information that has been posted here, I’ve decided that I’ll go the DCC route. I downloaded the evaluation version of the Railmaster software, just to have a look around. The evaluation version is obviously very basic, and without a controller, I’m limited to just nosing around really. I have an older laptop from around 2015ish that I plan to use up in the loft, so I can see real time what I’m doing.

The Railmaster software comes with some very useful PDFs on how everything works, and along with the information everyone has provided here, I’ve decided to buy the Elite controller and use the Railmaster software.

As for the loco, I’ve decided to either to find a cheap DCC ready shunter so I can get use to how things work, or go for a more expensive Class 08, as I’ve always loved how it looked. And strangely enough, Diesel from Thomas the Tank Engine made me want one, I think it was his creepy music. 🤷‍♂️ Wagons will be just whatever pack I fancy at the time so I can use them to practice shunting, coupling and uncoupling.

The track layout will be custom, with provisions for future expansions and landscaping. Am I correct in thinking if I buy track by itself, or the extension packs, I will need to buy the digital electric point pins also? If I was to buy track extension packs, it would give me a great many pieces to make pre-planned or custom layouts. And of course, some track nails.

So, if I have the controller, the software, the loco, the decoder, the wagons, the track, the track point pins, I obviously need a way of getting power to the track. What do I need for this? And if I have left anything out, what am I missing?

Thanks again everyone. You’ve all been very helpful.

The track packs are put together in terms of content on the basis of them being used on an Analogue layout. So the R8232 DCC points clips will need to be purchased as a separate item.

To the best of my recollection, track pins (nails) do not come with track either, so again a separate purchase. The DCC track power connectors for Hornby track are R8241 and R8242. These IIRC do not fit into flexi-track lengths only Hornby set track pieces.

Use SCARM or Anyrail software (free trial versions are downloadable) to design your proposed layout. The software allows you to try out all different layout designs without having to buy any track. Once you get a layout design you like, the software generates an inventory parts list. This means that you can just buy the track parts you actually need with no unnecessary bits left over.

There are a few things to consider ...

1. What era / what type of motive power - DMU/EMU, dock/industrial small light, Preserved, 60's 'overlap' and thus what curves can the locomotives / motive power negotiate?
2. Based on above, how much space do you have available - can you actually fit the curves you need to use for the motive power you haven't yet purchased (hopefully)?
3. DC / DCC / DCC Sound.

Some of these you may already have answered above but all are worth considering again.

After all of that, we all still make mistakes and oversights!

Al.

If you can, make your board a bit wider than 4’ to allow for overhang of some long nosed locos and longer wagons and carriages. At that width you can just get fourth radius curves in. Download the track geometry for clues size-wise.

See here https://d63oxfkn1m8sf.cloudfront.net/9216/0086/9107/Track-Geometry-PDF.pdf

I feel really dumb, but this part of atom’s post really lost me.

1. What era / what type of motive power - DMU/EMU, dock/industrial small light, Preserved, 60's 'overlap' and thus what curves can the locomotives / motive power negotiate?

Is the question, which era of train am I looking to work with, and how will trains of that era work with the curves of the track?

If so, the answer would be, just exiting the steam era and moving into diesel/diesel electric era. I quite like the short stubby shunters, but also the larger steam trains with coal tenders. So ideally I’d like to have some larger curved track with long straights for the bigger locos, then some smaller inner tracks for smaller ones.

I downloaded the track planing software, I really struggled with the SCARM program. The AnyRail program was expensive, but I really liked how it felt, so now I have the full version, I can plan my track layout.

Hi DRC, it'll be what I called 'the 60's crossover' period then ...

Glad you understood what I meant about the radii, and no offence if you're a practised modeller.

Al.

Thanks Al, that makes choosing wagons and engines easier.

I’ve been using the AnyRail software and I’m wondering how accurate it is. I spend a lot of time making sure all the joints match up and are “proper”. But sometimes there is a tiny gap, or the alignment is off very slightly.

When transferred to actual track, is there any give or play that can overcome these small gaps, or is what I see on AnyRail what I will see with actual track pieces?

I’m not conversant with Anyrail but in SCARM you can adjust the tolerances for “fit” and that applies to the real world. There is some wriggle room ……. to an extent. Are there any adjustable settings in Anyrail? R-

This is a rough idea of what I'm looking to make. It feels a little tight, so I might try and slim it down a little.

I welcome any and all criticisms of my layout. I've only been using AnyRail for a few hours, so I still have a lot to learn. All connections seem to be correct, and I didn't need to adjust the tolerances in the end.

The areas are:

1. Town or village area.
2. Church or some other kind of important building, like a pub.
3. This track will eventually lead to a tunnel for a future expansion, but until that happens, I'll use this section as a utility or loco shed.
4. Shed for locos.
5. Again this track is aimed at future expansions, but it doesn't do much for the current layout, so I may change the track to point left, and create another oval.
6. Same deal as area 5, aimed at future expansion, but good for shunting and wagon storage until then.
7. Now this bit is very ambitious. My plan is to have this become a slope upwards, which continues round all the way to section 8. The plan is to use the roof beam in my loft as a single track bridge so that I have a way of reaching the other side of my loft, and another 8x4 workspace. I can see how this will work out in my head, but.. it's messy in there.
8. This is where the gradual slope will reach the roof beam. This is probably the last thing I will try to complete.

There will be a road running out of the top of the town over the double crossing which makes an instant right turn, then continues along towards area 3/8 and into another tunnel.

Having the ability to build a virtual track layout like this is amazing. The idea of trying to do this on the board with real pieces does seem fun, but also quite expensive and probably frustrating.