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Where to start?

Posted at 15:04:57 Wed 6 Oct 2021

Hello everyone, glad to finally be here.

I have wanted a Hornby train set since I was a child, and now I have the means to finally invest some time and money, I’m lost at where to start. I have recently begun to board my loft space, as it’s something I’ve long wanted to do, and realised I would have enough space to assemble some track, and later on, some landscape.

I have begun to watch beginner videos and how to get started, but I have to admit that I feel a bit overwhelmed with where to start.

My plan was to start with a starter set, more specifically the R1271M iTraveller 6000 set, because it comes with the HM 6000 which I really like the look of.

I have come here to ask the experts what are a few of the do's and don’ts when starting out? It feels like this is a hobby where the sky is the limit in terms of how much you can spend, both in time and money, and how much space you can use.

I really like the look of the DDC, but is this for more advanced users, or is it something you can use from the start?

The RailMaster seems like something for large scale setups with multiple trains and connections, so is this something I should avoid until I’m more comfortable with how everything works?

I did try to keep this short, but there is so much I’d like to ask. For now, I’ll leave it here. If you have read all the way to this point, thank you, you’re a real trooper.

Thanks all.

My name is long, so just call me Lee.

Last Edited 15:08:30 Wed 6 Oct 2021

Posted at 18:15:34 Fri 4 Mar 2022

Just as an additional note, when I turn the Select on, the start up numbers read: 20-30-03.

My name is long, so just call me Lee.

Last Edited 18:15:54 Fri 4 Mar 2022
Posted 18:15:34 Fri 4 Mar 2022

Posted at 18:17:54 Fri 4 Mar 2022

That matches with the documentation that is provided as a PDF download. If the manual had been completely rewritten as a 1.6/2.0 manual, then one would expect that the PDF version would also be available from the support download section of the website.

"Just as an additional note, when I turn the Select on, the start up numbers read: 20-30-03."

That indicates that your new Select purchase is more than likely a Select MKII in spite of the label saying 1.6

Chris.......Making the 'Wood in the Trees' visible.

Last Edited 18:26:49 Fri 4 Mar 2022
Posted 18:17:54 Fri 4 Mar 2022

Posted at 18:30:21 Fri 4 Mar 2022

1.6 on the box?

1.5 in the manual?

2.0 on the Select?

Crikey.

Would it be safe to assume that when/if my Elite arrives, it too will be the newest/latest model, as presumably, it hasn’t even been made yet, so would be made to the newest specs?

My name is long, so just call me Lee.

Last Edited 19:30:28 Fri 4 Mar 2022
Posted 18:30:21 Fri 4 Mar 2022

Posted at 18:46:18 Fri 4 Mar 2022

The full printed manual is written for up to version 1.5. The printed addendum manual is for 1.6/2.0, thus the printed documentation included in the box in total is valid for up to firmware version 2.0 - I can only assume that printing costs for the addendum were a lot less than re-issuing a complete updated full manual.

In terms of the Elite, a new production run should have the very latest firmware, currently version 1.45

The difference with the Elite is that the Elite firmware can be updated DIY at home via an Internet download, so even if the Elite firmware is updated after the completion of a new factory production run, it can easily be updated to a later version. Note that 1.45 is quite stable and has been the current version for some considerable time.

Chris.......Making the 'Wood in the Trees' visible.


Posted 18:46:18 Fri 4 Mar 2022

Posted at 13:39:42 Sat 5 Mar 2022

Thanks Chris, as usual, great information.


I managed to run in four locos yesterday, everything worked flawlessly and I had no issues. Today however, the Select keeps showing the EO message and the train stops. Nothing is different today than it was yesterday.


I tried my R3865 Britannia today and it's a non mover. I put it on the track and it hums, but shows no signs of life. I'm just fitting decoder to a R3534 King Class, so hopefully this will run ok.


Definitely an interesting start. One thing I have noticed is that the small hex nuts that connect the con rods to the wheels are fairly loose on every loco I've tried so far.

My name is long, so just call me Lee.

Last Edited 14:33:52 Sat 5 Mar 2022
Posted 13:39:42 Sat 5 Mar 2022

Posted at 13:48:20 Sat 5 Mar 2022

EO means emergency off and it kills all track power, therefore it can be assumed a short is causing the trip. Check if it happens at the same place on track or just with the one loco at the same or in different places.

The Brit is protesting because it needs a decoder fitting. Even just placing a DCC-Ready loco on a DCC track can damage the motor. Once it is DCC-Fitted with a decoder it will be OK.

You can check your Elite when you get it. New batches only have one Xpressnet port due to having to use bigger track - prog and boost - aux terminals. There is also a date code stamped into the lower case. XX/YR

http://www.halton96th.org.uk/robs_rails.html

Last Edited 13:55:54 Sat 5 Mar 2022
Posted 13:48:20 Sat 5 Mar 2022

Posted at 14:39:16 Sat 5 Mar 2022

I fitted an R7143 TTS decoder to my Britannia. I thought maybe the Select can’t use those, so I fitted a R8249 decoder and it still shows no sign of life. The little 1 on the decoder corresponds to the 1 on the tender chassis. I’ll keep working on it.


I took my track apart, it’s just a 2nd radius oval on some sheets of cardboard I got from work. I’ve read running locos on carpet can clog them up. I also noticed that my R8241 digital power track piece was bent, not sure how this would have happened but luckily I had another that was straight, so I replaced that. I checked all the fishplates and went over the track with a track rubber. Maybe I just need to take more care in setting up.


My King Class is going around without any issue and the Select hasn’t cut out once. I hope it’s not user error, but I am rather inexperienced at all this, so it very well could be.


Good call on the date. On the back of my Select it says 04/21.

My name is long, so just call me Lee.

Last Edited 15:29:10 Sat 5 Mar 2022
Posted 14:39:16 Sat 5 Mar 2022

Posted at 20:20:45 Sat 12 Mar 2022

Is there a definitive way to test if a DDC TTS, or standard decoder works, other than: it doesn’t work.


I have an R7143 TTS decoder for a Britannia class. I tried it in my R3865 Britannia and it just hummed and played no sound functions, and the loco wouldn’t move at all. I then tried a R8249 decoder in the same loco and still no life. So that is now back with Hornby for repair.


I then tried the same R7143 in an R3857 Class 8P, again the speaker just hummed and would play no sound functions at all. The loco did move, but the initial move away was delayed for a few seconds and it seemed to be slower than what the speed dial would indicate based on how fast my other trains went at the same speed setting. I then tried an R8249 and the loco worked perfectly. Managed to run it in with no problem at all, other than the front bogie falling off and the drive gears slipping out of alignment…


I reset the decoder and it made no difference. I’ve read that the Hornby decoders are sort of, made to a budget, so they can be temperamental.


I installed it just as I’ve done with all my other decoders. Does this sound like I’ve got a dud, or am I missing a step on installation or setup?


Normally I’d probably just put it to one side and leave it, but at over £40 a pop, I’d like to at least try to make it work.



My name is long, so just call me Lee.


Posted 20:20:45 Sat 12 Mar 2022

Posted at 21:16:24 Sat 12 Mar 2022

Can't help with specifics of TTS decoders, but several manufacturers make decoder testers, usually with a speaker and motor on board so that all functions can be tested, they should work with any decoder since the commands are standard. The Lais 86033 looks to be the most budget option.

Starting delay can be caused by a high value in the CV for acceleration, and it seems normal for a sound project to ramp up the acceleration slowly so you hear the initial pull-away chuffing getting gradually faster as the train gets up to speed. So this might be normal realistic operation.

Jim

Last Edited 21:17:45 Sat 12 Mar 2022
Posted 21:16:24 Sat 12 Mar 2022

Posted at 07:56:37 Sun 13 Mar 2022

I have the LaisDCC tester which works fine, though as I don't have any sound decoders I can't vouch for it in that regard.


Posted 07:56:37 Sun 13 Mar 2022

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