Where to start?

This may be helpful. Gleaned from another forum

https://d28lcup14p4e72.cloudfront.net/228673/7490681/program%20track%20SW%20PowerCab.pdf

That circuit is only of use for a controller without a Prog output, i.e. the Track output is switched internally by the controller for running or programming purposes. The Hornby Select is of that type.

My circuit is the very opposite of that, i.e. the dual purpose track is connected to the switch centre and the controller Prog and Track outputs are connected to the switch outer feeds.

Chrissaf, is the track piece in your picture homemade?

Yes it was 'homemade'.

The track part was some left over PECO flex track that has been pinned down. The wood part was carved out of a length of 2 x 2 timber using my slide mitre bench saw. Then sanded smooth and coated with lacquer. The black bits are off-cuts of neoprene rubber glued on with contact adhesive. The wires are soldered to the end of the metal rails.

It could just as easily been a plain piece of timber battern with the track fitted with clip on buffers.

But since I have the woodworking tools and the skill to use them, I put something together that I think looks the part.

Very basic question here. The Hornby Elite obviously comes with a wire that connects the controller to the track, but if I want to add another power track piece, what wire do I use?

And how do you wire it? Just put both wires into the main track socket, then feed them to the track?

The wire that comes with the Elite is close to if not exactly compatible with the 16/0.2mm specification. But I would suggest that 24/0.2mm wire would be preferred.

You could twist the two track feeds together and insert them into the 'Track' output on the Elite, that would be one way. Another way would be to use a short length of 32/0.2mm wire pair between the Elite and a 5 amp Electrical screw terminal strip, then parallel the two track feed wire pairs into that. Whichever way you do it, be very careful to get the track feeds the right (same) way round, you will know if you have them crossed as the Elite will error when powered up with 'short circuit' detection.

If you are making your own wire feeds to go into the power tracks, then you will need Hornby X8011 crimp terminals to terminate on the wires that fit into the track power sockets. The X8011 can be purchased off ebay in smaller quantities than Hornby's pack of 50, but this does work out more expensive on a per crimp terminal basis. Last time I checked, they were out of stock in the Hornby shop. Exactly the same terminals are sold by Guagemaster with their own GM part number, but they are very expensive compared to Hornby and sold in packs of 6. Unless they are back in stock from Hornby, the best alternative is an ebay purchase for a pack of 10.

@DarkRedCape I started my first layout a few months ago, at the age of 66. I spent a lot of time on YouTube watching 'how to' videos - and in this and another forum asking basic questions (I still do). I even got help on designing my layout from forum members.

I have started my own YouTube channel as a 'BRANCHLINE' to my photography teaching channel.

You might like to have a look at the first 9 videos I have made so far - which cover everything from choosing the locos to buying the baseboard and wiring it. I hope it's helpful.

BRANCHLINE: Musings on Model Railways - YouTube

Hi Stephen, I’ve also spent a lot of time watching videos on how to do things, reading guides, and of course, getting lots of help from the good people here on the forum.

Thanks to them I went from knowing nothing to having a pretty good idea how to get started and what I need for a basic setup.

I liked your videos, especially the one about shunting. Thank you very much for your input, I really appreciate it.

I was in your position a year ago, at which point I levitated into the roof space.

I started a couple of years ago with an 8' x 4' board I bought complete from ebay with hornby track mat and extension packs X, Y and Z [I forget which] with the mixed goods DCC pack running.

This soon developed and now encompasses the entire loft space on one side of the house; 14' x 9'.

I made many mistakes, most of which were impulsive but, thanks to forums such as this, developed as my video clip shows.

This shown is my layout with my 'newer' locomotives, my steam engines are in my drawers underneath.

I swap every couple of months.

As you'll see I'm not one for an 'era' and I've yet to really start modelling, I still tweak!!!

This clip is eight months old, numerous layout tweaks and tiny improvements have been made since then, although as you can see I've spent a lot of joyful hours building a lot of metcalfe kits!

Mine is more of a trainset, rather than a model railway.

I'd strongly recommend DCC and, as I did, invest in a layout programme. I use railmodellerpro for the mac.

I'd also recommend you build up very slowly and, if you're unhappy with, for example, the quality of the railroad models [which, when I started, were good value for money], buy one of the premium models instead of two of something you're only relatively happy with.

I rushed into wanting to fill my space and then found I wanted the better quality locomotives.

Copy and paste the following link into your browser if you care to see a short video clip of my layout:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6sylgvm8hp610u8/20210504_220236.mp4?dl=0

Nice layout. I'm with you on the Metcalfe kits, they're brilliant.

Nice layout. I'm with you on the Metcalfe kits, they're brilliant.

They are indeed.

Excellent value for money and quite fun to build.