Laying Flexible Track - Tips for the Unwary

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Posted at 23:18:27 Sun 1 Apr 2012

I'm just getting ready to start building my first significant layout. It's all been designed in Any Rail over many iterations so I know exactly where each piece of track is on the layout to within a few mm and how long each piece of flexible track is.

I'm planning to use one piece of set track in the middle of each curve as an "anchor piece" for the curve and to plot the lot from the design onto the baseboard (mdf). I'm planning on very few set track straights, mainly flexible.

Does that sound like

a reasonable approach? What am I missing and need to know to actually achieve it? I know - how long is a piece of string and it depends, but some basic advice would be great.

And thanks for all the fish …

Last Edited 18:51:22 Sat 15 Sep 2012

Flashbang

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Posted at 08:55:47 Mon 2 Apr 2012

Hi
Don't forget that when flexible track is curved the inner rail becomes longer than the outer rail. It will need t be cut to keep the two the rails same length. It will also need to be cut to fit in as needed between points or other track sections.

How

you cut the rail is up to you, there are several options available.....
1) Use a special rail cutting tool like the excellent Xuron rail cutter.
2) Use a dremel type electric mini drill fitted with a metal slitting disc.
3) Use a Razor saw.
4)

Or a fine blade in junior hack saw.
Option 4 - Hacksaw isn't the best, as the rail needs to be overlapping an edge to allow the saw to cut through.
Both 3 & 4 really need a means of hold the rail steady whilst the saw cuts through to prevent the rail

being pulled out of the plastic chairs. I have used a small block of wood (2" x 1" off cut) with two parallel slots cut into it at the exact rail spacing apart and then this sits over the track/rails and locks the rails in place and also gives a nice straight

edge to cut against.
File the rails cut end to remove any burrs.

If using options 1 or 2 do wear eye protection and ensure there are no onlookers. A piece of cut rail can fly off and easily hurt you/someone who is watching.

Broken?? It was working when I left it!

Posted 08:55:47 Mon 2 Apr 2012

Fishmanoz

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Posted at 09:19:53 Mon 2 Apr 2012

Hi Flashbang, thanks for that. I was aware of the differing rail length issue so was planning on measutring centre rail so that the correct number of sleepers can be worked out, then fine tune by trial laying to get the exact length. And I've decided on

using a Dremmel given all the other things it can do for me. I'll be sure to wear safety glasses.

Any other thoughts from anyone?

And thanks for all the fish …

Posted 09:19:53 Mon 2 Apr 2012

walkingthedog

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Posted at 09:50:33 Mon 2 Apr 2012

It is a good idea to remove the sleepers and pre-bend the track a little and then replace the sleepers. Flexi-track tends to try and straighten out and bending it will prevent this happening.
On my layout if a curve is the same radius as set track I

use this instead of flexi.

Posted 09:50:33 Mon 2 Apr 2012

naugytrax

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Posted at 13:42:56 Mon 2 Apr 2012

I have to agree with WTD about constant-radius curves. Curved sectional track is much more likely to give a true circular path. However, where the curves meet the straight bits you have the opportunity to install "easements" if you use flexible track.

An easement is a section of track, maybe a foot or two in length, where the radius gradually changes from that of the curve at one end to "infinite radius" (straight) at the other. It looks better and the trains dont "jerk" sideways as they enter the curve.
Pre-bending

the track (only the ends need to be shaped) is vital to avoid kinks on curves. Pay no attention to any advice that you should solder the ends of the rails together!

Posted 13:42:56 Mon 2 Apr 2012

Fishmanoz

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Posted at 14:53:29 Mon 2 Apr 2012

Thanks naugytrax - most of my layout is designed with easements and I intend to have set track between, so I seem to be heading in the right direction. There is one mountain area though where I'm using second radius curves and there is no room for easements

- only intend to use short shorter locos and rolling stock here.

And thanks for all the fish …

Posted 14:53:29 Mon 2 Apr 2012

oorail

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Posted at 17:23:55 Mon 2 Apr 2012

This video might help you out with cutting flex track with a Dremel tool:

http://youtu.be/L1vKOdjhyUs

You will want to tack down the flex track either side of where you are trying to cut it.
This stops it from moving when you touch the

rail with the disc. They sell re-enforced discs
which work great for cutting flex track, and don't break so easily.

If you need to cut or grind the rail while its on the baseboard, you can do this but I'd suggest putting small blocks of 2x4 around

where you are cutting in case of debris, and move any rolling stock out of immediate area :)

oorail.co.uk

Posted 17:23:55 Mon 2 Apr 2012

Fishmanoz

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Posted at 23:58:02 Mon 2 Apr 2012

Thanks oorail77, I've found your videos most helpful previously, including in my decision to go with the Dremel.

Any tricks for laying flexible track on inclines?

And thanks for all the fish …

Posted 23:58:02 Mon 2 Apr 2012

81F

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Posted at 00:10:57 Tue 3 Apr 2012

If using more than one length of flexi tracl I tend not to cut the inner rail of the first length but pull the inner rail of the second piece out and tread the first inner rai into the slwpers of the second bit. This staggers the join and leads to a much

smoother curve. Indeed I often shorten the outer rail to chieve a longer stagger.

Jouning the track is still quite simple you just cut away the chairs under the end of the rail (and the next one to it once pinned down, Insert rail joiner and slide second

rail into place.

Modelling a combined 00 and 009 gauge Layout (GWR/GVT) mostly

Posted 00:10:57 Tue 3 Apr 2012

81F

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Posted at 00:11:53 Tue 3 Apr 2012

PS I should have said once I reach a pint or straight section I then trim the rail!

Modelling a combined 00 and 009 gauge Layout (GWR/GVT) mostly

Posted 00:11:53 Tue 3 Apr 2012

walkingthedog

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Posted at 14:08:57 Tue 3 Apr 2012

81F said:

PS I should have said once I reach a pint or straight section I then trim the rail!

Quite right 81F, once I've reached a couple of pints I don't know what I'm trimming!

Posted 14:08:57 Tue 3 Apr 2012

Laying Flexible Track - Tips for the Unwary

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