Posted at 16:18:29 Sat 4 Jun 2016
Perhaps a little late? But something that has been in store for 32 year probably isn't going to run immediately, if at all. Is this a 2 rail or 3 rail set? I'll assume 2 rail for the time being.
The very first thing to be done is lubricate all pivots and bearings. Pivots on steam outline loco are on the wheel motion linkages and connection to the wheels. Bearings are where the motor shaft emerges from the motors casing at both ends. Only use oil specifically designed for model railway lubrication. Do not use WD40 types of spray lubricant or 3 in 1 oils which are too thick and sprays go 'Gooey' after a while! Remember the 'Golden rule of lubrication'... If you can see it (the oil) its probably too much! Blot off any excess oil with a tissue or kitchen paper. Clean all wheel rims / treads. I use a fibre pencil, but a Peco PL40 brush and scraper can be used. But the wheels will need to be turned. Don't force them around by hand, if the motor wont turn under power, then by finger rotate the drive cog on the motors shaft or manually rotate the motors commutator (Comm). Next clean the Comm segments with the fibre pencil. Take a wooden tooth pick or cocktail stick and carefully draw the tip along the Comms insulation gaps between the segments. Check the carbon brushes are in good order and touching the freshly cleaned Comm. Replace them if necessary. Apply a little oil to the drive train gearing. Now if wished use either a fresh PP3 9 volt battery or a good quality train controller and connect a temporary pair of wires to the supply. Then touch the two wires onto the motor where the carbon brushes are or the motors wiring tags. Does the motor now turn? If so remove power and check any rear of wheel wipers are clean and the insides of the wheels where they rub are clean - use the fibre pencil and ensure once clean the wipers are lightly pressing onto the wheels even when the wheel moves across the body slightly. Apply the temporary power to the wheels and the wheels and motor should turn. Note: older locos and especially those from Hornby Dublo suffer motor magnetism loss. These can be remagnetised by specialist supplies or a modern Neodymium magnet fitted in their place. A low powered magnet will cause more current (Amps) to be drawn and possible even prevent the motor turning at all! Spares are still available as are magnets. Try ebay if necessary.
Turning to the track.. At that age I suspect its steel rail. Likely to be rusted too! Check with a magnet which will be attracted to steel rail. If steel, clean the surface of the rails with some very fine Emery cloth wrapped around a small wooden block (Note: never do this with modern Nickel Silver railed track). Remove any surface rust. If its too rusted discard as you'll never get it right! Look now at the fishplates (Rail Joiners) these need to be a tight fit onto the two rail ends they join and also spotlessly clean inside where they touch onto the rail. Use the fibre pencil and/or the Emery cloth on a thin stick/cocktail stick to clean their insides.
Power.... Consider obtaining quality train controllers like those from GM, a supplier based in Ford, Near Arundel. W Sussex.. These come with a lifetime warranty! The Hornby HM2000 may just be powerful enough? But at 800 milliamps to track maximum it's pushing it! I'd go with the GM controllers for such old locos. Expect old Hornby Dublo locos to draw around a minimum of 1/2 Amp (500ma) and more like 3/4 up to 1.0Amp They were power hungry and made worse by weakened magnets.
Broken?? It was working when I left it!
Posted 16:18:29 Sat 4 Jun 2016
